If you have visited YarnHookNeedles at any time in the recent past you will have seen I am in love with making wearables as well as crochet cables! Today’s project will make you feel like a crochet pro!
Your First Crochet Cable Sweater – FREE Pattern
You will be shocked at how easily you can make this crochet cable sweater for yourself. If you have trouble, don’t worry, I am here to help walk you through every step of the way. Below you will find links to purchase the ad-free PDF version of this pattern. It is available on Etsy and Ravelry. You will also find a video tutorial where I show you how to do the stitches as well as how to assemble the piece.
So get your materials, read through the pattern notes and let’s get started on this crochet cable sweater together!
FULL VIDEO TUTORIAL AT THE END OF THE POST!!!
MATERIALS:
- Appr. 900-1000yrd of acrylic worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart with LOVE in the colorway Taupe for this project)
- K Hook (6.5MM)
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
PATTERN NOTES:
To adjust this pattern to fit your body, there are a few things you will want to measure. First, your bust. This is typically the widest part of your abdomen. Because this piece is worked in 4 individual pieces, you will need to base your multiple off of your bust measurement for your cable panel.
For example, I am a 38C. I have a mildly loose tension when I crochet so my initial foundation was 51 HDC. This will make more sense as you read through the pattern. I also encourage you to watch the video so you can hear me explain it in more detail. Rather than trying to just read it.
You will also want to measure your arm. This will help you to know whether your sleeve is too tight or too loose. Again, I’ll explain this in more detail within the video down below.
ABBREVIATIONS (U.S. TERMS):
- st/sts (stitch/stitches)
- CH (chain)
- HDC (half double crochet)
- FPDC (front post double crochet)
- BPDC (back post double crochet)
- FPTC (front post triple crochet)
***I do want to mention something before we start. I had an overweight mother who struggled her entire life trying to find clothes which fit. When I am creating these designs I am trying to take into account every person’s body is unique to them. They might be similar in one area but completely different in another. You deserve to wear nice pieces you make for yourself without feeling super stressed by a design. With that said, I believe this pattern can be made by ANY crochet level maker! Even if you’re a beginner I am confident you can make this sweater perfectly fit for you!
CROCHET CABLE SWEATER PATTERN:
***please note this pattern is written for a M-L size. I am 5’4″ with a 38C bust. You can easily customize this pattern as you will see below. Watch the video tutorial for further customization tips!
BOTTOM RIBBING FOR FRONT CABLE PANEL
CH 12
R1: in the 3rd CH from the hook place a HDC. Continue across with HDCs. CH 2. Turn.
R2: (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the BACK LOOP of each stitch across until 2nd to last st, HDC in BOTH LOOPS in last st. CH 2. Turn.
R3 – 34: repeat row 2. Then rotate your ribbing to be completely horizontal. From here we are going to begin working the cable panel.
THE FRONT CABLE PANEL
CH 2
R1 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) create 50 HDC stitches all the way across. CH 2. Turn.
R2 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the next st. FPDC in the next 3 sts. * HDC in the next 2 sts.. FPDC in the next 3 sts. Repeat from * across ending with a HDC in the last stitch. CH 2. Turn.
R3 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) BPDC in the next 3 sts. * HDC in the next 2 sts. BPDC in the next 3 sts. Repeat from * across ending with a HDC in each of the last 2 sts. CH 2. Turn.
R4 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the next st. * Skip the next stitch. Place a FPTC in the next st. Working BACKWARDS and BEHIND the stitch you just made, place a FPTC in the skipped stitch. WORKING FORWARD place a FPTC in the next stitch. HDC in the next 2 sts. Repeat from * across ending with a HDC in the last st. CH 2. Turn.
R5 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) BPDC in the next 3 sts. * HDC in the next 2 sts. BPDC in the next 3 sts. Repeat from * across ending with a HDC in each of the last 2 sts. CH 2. Turn.
R6 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the next st. *FPTC in the next st. Skip the next s. Place a FPTC in the next st. WORKING BACKWARDS in FRONT of the stitch you just made, place a FPTC in the skipped stitch. WORKING FORWARD place a HDC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * across ending with a HDC in the last st. CH 2. Turn.
R7 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) BPDC in the next 3 sts. * HDC in the next 2 sts. BPDC in the next 3 sts. Repeat from * across ending with a HDC in each of the last 2 sts. CH 2. Turn.
R8 – 46: repeat rows 3 – 7
R47: HDC all the way across. Tie off. Set to the side.
BACK PANEL
Repeat the same steps for making the cuff for your front panel. Once you have it laying horizontal, you will CH 2 and place 50 HDC all the way across.
R2 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the back loop all the way across. CH 2. Turn.
R3 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the front loop all the way across. CH 2. Turn.
R4 – 47: Repeat rows 1 & 2. Tie off. Set to the side.
SLEEVES (make 2)
CUFF: CH 22
Make the sleeve cuffs just like the panel cuffs. Complete a total of 14 rows. Then, you will turn the cuff horizontal, CH 2 and place a HDC in the same stitch as your CH 2. Continue across with HDCs. End the row by placing 2 HDC in the last st. CH 2. Turn. This will give you a total of 24 HDCs.
R2 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the same stitch as the CH 2. Continue across with HDCs. End the row by placing 2 HDC in the last st. Ch 2. Turn. This will give you a total of 26 sts.
R3 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the same stitch as the CH 2. Continue across with HDCs. End the row by placing 2 HDC in the last st. Ch 2. Turn. This will give you a total of 28 sts.
R4 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the same stitch as the CH 2. Continue across with HDCs. End the row by placing 2 HDC in the last st. Ch 2. Turn. This will give you a total of 30 sts.
R5 – 19: (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC all the way across. CH 2. Turn.
R20 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the same stitch as the CH 2. Continue across with HDCs. End the row by placing 2 HDC in the last st. Ch 2. Turn. This will give you a total of 32 sts.
R21 – (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC in the same stitch as the CH 2. Continue across with HDCs. End the row by placing 2 HDC in the last st. Ch 2. Turn. This will give you a total of 34 sts.
R22 – 42: (chain 2 counts as first HDC) HDC all the way across. CH 2. Turn.
Tie off and leave an extra long tail for attaching to the panels.
SEAMING THE PIECES:
First, we are going to attach your panels together and create a head hole. With right sides together, you will measure from the shoulder edge inward (towards the center) and seam it closed appr. 4 1/2in- 5in. Do this on both sides. I recommend trying it on first before weaving in ends and attaching sleeves to make sure your head hole isn’t too large or too small.
Next, you will lay out your attached front and back panels. Taking your sleeve, you will line up the center of the sleeve with the seam you made when attaching the panels together. You want to make sure your sleeve is as perfectly centered as can be, otherwise, it will make your piece look wonky. (do this twice for both sleeves)
***Please remember, just like in sewing we are seaming these pieces together inside out. Make sure everything is facing in the direction of “right sides together”.
Once you have your sleeves attached you will take the garment (it’s really looking like sweater huh?) and lay it as though it is completely inside out. Line up all the edges of the wrist to the waist and begin seaming closed. (do this twice for both sides)
Weave in those ends and you. are. done.
Can you believe it??? Super easy right? If for any reason you are having trouble with your crochet cable sweater, please refer to the video. If after that you are still struggling please shoot me an email and I will do my absolute best to get back to you quickly!
FULL VIDEO TUTORIAL BELOW!
If you decide to make one of these sweaters, be sure to tag me on social media @yarnhookneedles If you’re on Instagram and you tag me, I will feature you in a story! I LOVE seeing what you all are making! It keeps me inspired to create more pieces for each of you!
CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE THE AD-FREE PDF VERSION OF THIS PATTERN FROM ETSY
CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE THE AD-FREE PDF VERSION OF THIS PATTERN FROM RAVELRY
Pin the image below to save this project for later!
Sybille
Hi in your pAttern You wrote to. Repeat rom 3 to row 7 ,but row 3 is the same then row7 what to i get wrong?
Jerica
Hi!
Yes, you are correct. Row 3 and row 7 are the same. Therefore, you would need to repeat rows 3 – 6 making sure to end your panel on the 3rd row. Does that make sense?
Sybille
Yeah that’ what i thought,And did,started yesterday allready have the front And back,took worsted weight yarn ,the pAttern is just beautifull,very easy to make i Will send You a Picture once i am finished,Thanks a lot for this easy And beautifull pattern
Katey
Hey! I’m a bit confused by the sleeves. For the ribbing, you say to crochet 14 rows then turn horizontal and increase by two hdc on the ends. This would total 18 not 24 since we’re crocheting along the edge. Am I missing something?
Kelly C Jacobson
Curious as to why it says ch2 for the front but you only go to 34 rows on the bottom ribbing. Do I HDC into a few multiple times to make it snugger? I am new to doing this kind of crocheting. I watched your video but it didnt quite explain it but did mention the 5 plus 1 that I do understand.